We went for a weekend to Naples in Italy. Or Napoli as the locals call it. According to all the Italians in Naples this is where the best espressos can be found. Forget about Milan or Rome, Naples is the place to be for a caffe! <- according to the lovely Napoli people.

View from the hotel in Naples
What a fantastic weekend! We pretty much went into every espresso bar we could find. Of course we also visited the vulcano Vesuvius and the ancient city of Pompei. But we will focus here on the coffee and the baristas. Coffee in Italy is very different than in the UK of course. Maybe not so much the coffee itself, but more the culture and the way the baristas are. Baristas in Naples are extremely proud! They seem to be very happy pulling shots all day and take great pride in their work. This is absolutely wonderful to see.

People from Napoli are great!
It is also an espresso drinking town. You will hardly find cappuccinos and caffe lattes. Only in the morning will you find some cappuccinos and I spotted only one lady with a caffe latte (but she also had an espresso). Didn’t see one single macchiato or mocha or anything else. And forget about skinny decaf caramal lattes
For us, this is great to see.

Cups are kept in hot water all the time.
Most espressos we bought cost between 80 euro cents and 1.20 euro. That is definitely cheaper than in the UK and is an interesting fact. The cappuccinos were a little cheaper as well than in the UK. This did raise the question: Would people in the UK drink more espressos if we made the drink only 50 pence?
Whenever I work somewhere where we are handing out free drinks, I pull a lot of espressos. People suddenly don’t need long milky drinks or Americanos. They are happy with an espresso. Does this mean that we are charging too much for an espresso? Would it be good to make it cheaper? After all, I often find myself ordering another drink after the espresso, in the end spending more money. In Naples we had an espresso and a beer for example. But always an espresso. Interesting….

Some baristas automatically add a lot of sugar. We had to ask to serve without sugar.
Another interesting thing is the amount of traditional lever espresso machines. Many little coffee bars are using hand lever machines… I just love them. The barista fills up the group handle and loads it. Then you pull the lever down, wait for about 4 to 5 seconds and release it. The lever acts like the pump. I think it produces very interesting espressos but more importantly I like how you can manually control the pressure, pulling some very interesting shots. I didn’t see anybody in Naples do this though (manually control the lever that is).
Another big observation is that we didn’t spot one barista grinding fresh for each coffee. Every grinder was filled with ground coffee and the barista simply pulled once or twice for the dose. And I did notice this in flavour. The espressos all had good crema yet none of the shots where very fresh. They also grind as fine as possible. All extractions were nice and slow, we didn’t spot one quick shot. This is really great to see!

Espressos are usually drunk at the bar.
Every barista watches the shots. The shot is finished when the barista thinks it is. All manual. Some coffee bars have automatic espresso machines but none of the baristas actually use the preset buttons. Everything was free flow. Very cool!
What really amazed me was that some of the best espressos we had were at the airport or at the train station. Maybe because they were a lot busier and it was simply fresher coffee?
Milk techniques were a little disappointing for me. There was no latte art and I only found one barista who used fresh milk each time. Most of the time the milk was not too great resulting in rather average cappuccinos. Milk was just re-heated. I got talking to one barista and showed him a picture of some latte art. He got so excited and I ended up making a cappuccino behind the bar!! This was very cool and was the same that happened when I was in Madrid! I love this. I showed a little latte art and the enthusiasm from him was amazing. Real shame that my Italian is not good enough otherwise I could have explained it a lot more. Is latte art something that is just unknown in Napoli??

Lever espresso machine
Naples is pretty cool town. Lots of character, people are very lovely and great architecture. Little messy though which was a shame. But it was an absolutely fantastic weekend and definitely a recommendation to anyone. We flew with Easyjet and it was very cheap. Have a look for some great deals, a very good weekend out. Get in touch with us for some more info if you like.

Breakfast. Lots of pastries and cakes.

Some baristas tamp hard, some hardly tamp.